If you opt for this product, you can use either of the mounting methods described above. Self-adhesive acoustic panels are available. (Note: You can also spray glue the cardboard to the wall–but why? If you were going to do that, there is no need for cardboard.) (Note: Make sure you cover the floor, and maybe everything else with 2 mil poly to keep the glue off it.) After they dry, stick 2″ long removable double-sided tape on each corner of the cardboard and apply to the wall using the instructions above. Place panel face down on the floor and attach cardboard to the back using 3M spray glue. Cut the cardboard about 1/2″ smaller than the foam (example: 12″ x 12″ panel=11″ x 11″ cardboard). You will need reasonably stiff cardboard like cardboard boxes or sheets. But it can save your wall, and the panels will be re-usable if you change your mind or you can take them along when moving. This is a more thoughtful and time consuming process. Sticking to the floor after you are done might not be a good option.) (Note: You are probably going to be working in the room, so protect the floor from overspray with cheap 2 mil poly, or painter’s drop sheets. And make sure they are where you want them. Make sure you follow the general mounting suggestions above. The glue tacks quickly, but allows some re-positioning early in the process. Use 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive (according to manufacturer’s instructions) on the back of your foam and stick them on the wall. This is a quick and easy application method. This is the “I am never going to move them” or the “I don’t care about the drywall” mounting method. I have stayed married a long time by not doing dumb things like that.) (Note: I have seen suggestions about using an electric carving knife. Don’t be shy–one strong, straight cut will give you a clean edge. Then, using a long-bladed utility knife with a sharp blade (like the Olfa 5003-my favorite for years), held vertically against the level, cut off the excess. If you have to, or want to, cut panels, place them pointy face down on something you do not mind cutting on, place your level on your cut line, compress the foam by kneeling on the level.Continue adding as many panels as you like in all directions. Once the first panel is installed level with the line and centered on the ‘x’, you should not have to be concerned about level, plumb, and square if you just butt adjoining panels–in any direction–to the first one. Hold the level vertically on the center of wall mark and make a center-line ‘x’ above your horizontal line–so you can see it when applying the first panel. Use a level (preferably a 4′ level) to draw a horizontal line at the top mark. Measure up from center mark half the height of a panel. Find the center point of your panel array by measuring total wall width, dividing by two, and marking at whatever height you are using.(Regular household cleaners and soaps can leave a residue which reduces the effectiveness of glue and tape.) Clean the wall–or at least the attachment area–with rubbing alcohol or a 50/50 vinegar/water solution.Ear height or microphone/speaker height is preferable. Decide where you are mounting the panels.Meaning: How much effort do you want to put in to repairing walls if you decide to change things? Or take them with you when moving? Whichever method you choose tends to be ‘wall damage dependent’. How to Mount Acoustic Panels on the WallsĪlthough covering the entire wall is optimal–it is not strictly necessary. They may cost a bit more, but you will put in the same labor as with thinner product. Note: If you are going to the trouble to acoustically treat a room, get 2″ foam panels. Probably the most popular type of acoustic panels–lightweight, easy to use, multiple styles, sizes, colors, and are relatively inexpensive. But most of the information should be usable when hanging multiple types of panels. I have used foam panels and DIY panels in this article, for illustration purposes. Although hanging acoustic panels is not rocket science, it does require a little thought and planning.
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